Actually, I Don't Care...

...if you're tired of food blogs. You didn't spend the day in run-in
after run-in with Mrs. Ly.

She runs a food empire down here: half a dozen restaurants, several
bars, some street food boutiques, our hotel and a cirriculum of
cooking classes spanning everything from basic, every day cookery to
pro-level courses. I'm not sure there's an American chef with that
kind of range.

So after Vietnamese breakfast (more on that later) and haute couture
measurements, we found ourselves at Cargo. It may not sound like much,
but the right baguette (recall the French adventure here) with the
right butter and the right ham is a thing of beauty. Crisp, airy and
unpretentious, it's the kind of lunch that makes you feel unperturbed
about dropping a couple million dong on Xmas gifts (more on that
later, too).

Several hours and a couple of cocktails back at Cargo later and dinner
beckoned. We headed for Morning Glory, another of Mrs. Ly's
establishments.

I was not prepared.

Bun xeo thinh thit (I think). Crispy rice pancakes with scallions and
turmeric, herbs, chili, noodles, carrots, bean sprouts (and I don't
even like bean sprouts), satay and the most glorious pork caramelized
in fish sauce and coated in sesame seeds. You eat it like a Vietnamese
taco.

Angels wept. Dogs and cats lived together in harmony. The Israelis and
Palestinians finally worked it all out. It was simply one of the best
things I've ever put in my mouth.

Best of all, I didn't feel stuffed, despite the generous portion.
Though I love food I'm not a big eater, and this just left me
feeling...beautiful? Resplendent? Sublimely titulated? Again, in this
country, words fail.

It cost $4.06.

So don't put it off any longer; make your reservations now. Come to
Vietnam. Mrs. Ly is waiting for you.