Monday, January 2, 2012

Shopping in Jaipur

The bazaars here are insane--shops are densely packed together and overflowing with merchandise. There's the metalworking area of the market and a section devoted to clocks and sewing machines. In terms of crafts, textiles, pointy beaded leather shoes, and silver and gemstone jewelry are the highlights here. We've just started to scratch the surface, and it's all looking very, very promising.

Pink City

Our first day in Jaipur. The town is frequently referred to as the "pink city," although to us the color could be more appropriately described as salmon. We like this town (which is really a city because it has more than 3M residents) a lot already--it has some great architectural features, good museums, the air quality seems to be much better than Delhi or Agra (my eyes have stopped burning), and it's generally quite clean. And the shopping is amazing--more on that soon.

So, Back In Agra...

Eating is slim pickens. We tried for the restaurant in the upscale hotel, but it being the New Year, they had a guests-only policy. So we opted for the local Euro-hippie place instead. It was filled with Euro-hippies. Food was decent enough (no beer), and the two of us ate for less than ten bucks. Which is probably half what a single drink costs at the upscale place. So the ya go.

Early to bed and...up at 3:30 to catch the 5:10 express to Jaipur, where I'm writing this. The train system is a different experience at that hour--about fifty sleeping bodies lined the terminal, with more on the platforms. The Indian economy may be growing, but they're going to have to figure out a better way to deal with the social safety net.

But the train was fast--got here on time at 9:15--if a bit dark, packed and uncomfortable. I can only imagine what it's like in the hot season, but the forest of fans hanging from the ceiling gives me enough evidence to know that I don't want to know.

BTW, the cellular data networks have dropped out, so we're wi-fi where we can find it.

And One More

OK, Here's Another One

But Wait, That's Not All

About 40km outside Agra is Fatehpuri Sikri, the Ghost Fort. Bitch of a drive to get out there, but worth it. Built in 1571 by Akbar, it's one of the best preserved places I've ever seen (for being abandoned, that is; it was inhabited for only 14 years). It's made completely of red sandstone--even the ceilings/floors separating levels--and the masonry and carving is something to make you wonder.

Most interesting, the complex lacks the single- or double-axel geometries that define so many structures, from all parts of the world, from that time. Even individual buildings lack symmetry, more closely resembling modernist and post-modernist architecture, albeit with Mughal flourishes.

And then it started to rain again. As usual, more photos to come after our return.