Doin' the 'Cue

Another revelation. Two, really. The first is that Karen does BBQ--as long as there's veg, which there almost always is. On a side note, it's not unusual to find that these cooks treat vegetables with more respect than your typical greenie, who's generally more concerned with philosophy than food. And you can't eat philosophy.

Second, everyone knows the main BBQ architecture: NC (east and west), KC, Texas. But there's another axis to the matrix, and we tried all three.

The first is beard-be-cue. These are the new hipster joints run and staffed by ironic trucker hat-wearing, double-sleeved, neck-bearded individuals who found their calling after four years in a Boston legal firm. Ours was 12 Bones in Asheville. Ribs were a bit dry, the pulled pork was passable, but the chopped brisket was unreal. Same for the beans and corn pudding (Karen ate all mine). Order your tin plate and microbrew at the counter and find a table.

The next category is bro-be-cue. This can be found at the sit-down, strip mall-next-to-Whole Foods Midwood establishment in Columbia. The pulled is surprisingly good, as are the beans. The hush puppies aren't hush puppies. Karen enjoyed the hickory salmon.

The third category is bible-cue (pictured). Duke's in Ridgeland has it all, including one of the cook's grandmothers who rents a table by the door all day, drinking sweet tea and taking advantage of the AC. It's legit, bordering on community-based healthcare, as otherwise she wouldn't survive the heat. Anyway, the menu is a $10 all-you-can-eat buffet. It looks like what you'd find at the annual church fundraiser, and all of it is distressingly good. Like, it shouldn't be this addictive. Great pork. Perfect fried chicken. Hush puppies the way the good lord intended. Even the broccoli salad was delicious. And the decor is, shall we say...evangelical.

Is one better? Can't say. Each has a strength, but none of it was bad. But those southern baptist hush puppies...